The Splendors of Bhutan

Friday – Saturday, October 24 – 25, 2014:   USA to Bangkok
If you are flying from the west coast of the U.S., you depart on October 24. Losing one day due to crossing the International Date Line, you arrive in Bangkok late October 25 or early October 26. Other departure cities on the east coast may vary regarding flight times.

Sunday, October 26:   Bangkok to Paro, Bhutan
Very early this morning we proceed to check in with Druk Air at the Bangkok airport. Our flight from Bangkok to Paro is spectacular, and if we are lucky, we have glorious views of the snow-capped Himalayas. Our route flies over eight of the ten tallest peaks in the world including Mount Everest, Kanchanjunga, and Mount Makalu. The remarkable and steep descent into the Paro Valley (altitude, 7,400 feet) is an awe-inspiring beginning to our adventure, and already you feel the pace of life slow down.

After visa formalities and collecting our luggage, we are met by our driver for our transfer to Thimpu (approximately 1.5 hours).

At an altitude of 7,700 feet, Thimpu is the only capital city in the world with no traffic lights! This afternoon we will visit the Farmer’s Weekend Market where Thimphu residents mingle with villagers in an interesting urban and rural blend.

Later this afternoon we settle into our hotel and have the rest of the afternoon free to relax.

Overnight Hotel Migmar
Olakha, Thimphu, Bhutan
Tel : +975 2 338901-05
Fax: +975-2-338906
Web: www.hotelmigmar.bt

The Hotel Migmar is a friendly, comfortable hotel ideally situated just outside town and amidst the scenic landscape of Thimphu. It is built on a contemporary theme and yet has a unique blend of Bhutanese architecture and modern amenities.

Monday, October 27:   The Capital City of Thimpu and the Thimpu Valley
Today is packed with activities as we explore Thimpu and its environs:

• Thimphu also has a number of interesting handicrafts shops that sell silk weaving, masks, woodcarving, jewelry, and other handmade items. We’ll visit Lungtenzampa to observe traditional silversmiths plying their craft, and tour a Bhutanese traditional paper factory.
• We’ll pay our respects to Bhutan’s popular King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk at his Memorial Chorten, and visit Dupthop Lhakhang, which is a monastery for nuns.
• A stop at the National Library is a must, and also at the Painting School, where traditional art is kept alive through instructions in the art of painting Thangkhas (sacred Buddhist religious scrolls).
• The Medicine Institute is very interesting, where traditional medicines are prepared according to ancient practices.
• After lunch, we visit the Zngdo Pelri Temple (a replica of Guru Rinpoche’s celestial abode), and continue to Changlimithang  Stadium to witness young Bhutanese practicing their national sport, archery.
• Last but not least, Kunsel Phodrang (Buddha Point) is one of the most happening points in Thimphu. It is called the Buddha point because the largest statue of Buddha in the country sits there. The 51.5 meter bronze statue is three stories high with several chapels. The body of Buddha is filled with 125,000 smaller statues of Buddha. The night view of Thimphu from this point is ravishing and magical.
• And if we have any time left, don’t forget that the General Post Office sells Bhutan’s world famous stamps.

Overnight Hotel Migmar

Tuesday, October 28:   From Thimphu to Punakha (4,500 feet)
This morning’s drive has extraordinary views! The scenery includes dense forests of pine and oak, buckwheat and mustard fields, and meadows full of colorful wildflowers, gushing waterfalls, and traditional villages. On our way to Punakha, today’s destination, the road continues to climb, passing chortens (stupas) and prayer flags before heading up to Dochula Pass at 10,000 feet. Here we see 108 special chortens (stupas) surrounded by thousands of prayer flags dedicated to the Kingdom’s Peace and Gross National Happiness.

In Bhutan, prayer flags on mountain slopes, bridges, and high passes transmit prayers to the Gods and keep up a constant communication with the heavens. A small teahouse near the pass houses a pair of 200-power binoculars donated by a Japanese expedition that climbed Masa Gang on the Tibetan border. If the weather is clear, we can look through these binoculars and view the entire range of the Bhutan Himalaya.

Bhutan’s ecosystem harbors some of the most exotic species of flowering plants in the Eastern Himalayas, with over 2,000 varieties including 50 species of rhododendron. This area is also wonderful for bird watching. Bhutan has a stunning 770 species of birds, including many that are globally threatened. The country has been identified as one of the ten most important bio-diversity hot spots in the world. A bio-diversity “hot spot” is a place that constitutes less than two percent of the globe’s surface area but contains more than 50 percent of its bio-diversity.

We’ll stop at the village of Lobesa and hike to visit Chimmi Lhakhang, a temple dedicated to Drukpa Kuenley, a great 14th century Yogi who is a favorite saint of the Bhutanese people, affectionately known as “the Divine Madman.” The temple sits on a hillside in the middle of rice fields and has become a pilgrimage site for childless couples.

Our very beautiful second hike later today is to Khamsum Yuley Lhakhang, through beautiful rice paddy fields and past traditional farmhouses. A visit here is a good introduction to Tantric Buddhism in all its complexities. Containing some of the best Tantric art in Bhutan, we are able to compare this art with the more traditional Buddhist statuary and wall paintings that we saw at the Punakha Dzong. The shapes and forms of the Tantric statues may surprise most visitors. The terrifying divinities are manifestations of peaceful gods, which assume these forms to subdue evil spirits that are hostile to Buddhist doctrine. The nudity of most of the deities shows that this world’s conventions are of no importance on higher planes, and the persons being crushed by the wrathful deities are either spirits hostile to Buddhism or primordial negative concepts such as ignorance, jealousy, and anger. In Tantric Buddhism, numerous statues and paintings are also in the form of sexual union, which represents the union of compassion and wisdom that permits the attainment of a sublime state of enlightenment.

We continue our drive north to visit the majestic Punakha Dzong. Situated between Phochu and Mochu, this dzong is the most magnificent dzong in Bhutan and served as the capital of the country in the 17th and 18th centuries. Presently the dzong is the district administration and judiciary office as well as the winter home for Bhutan’s spiritual leader Je Khenpo and the 600 monks of Thimphu and Punakha.

Overnight Meri Puensum Resort
Woolakha
Punakha, Bhutan
Tel +975 2 584237
Fax +975 2 584236
www.meripuensum.bt

Built in 1999, the hotel hugs a steep hillside and its spacious rooms overlook the rice terraces of the Punaka Valley. Decorated with colorful flower boxes, it has a large stone patio and cozy dining room, and is cheerfully run by the retired governor of the Punakha district.

Wednesday, October 29:   From Punakha to Phobjikha (altitude 9,800 feet)
We begin early today for a fabulous drive to the central valleys of Bhutan through the breathtaking beauty and serenity of Bhutan’s rich flora and fauna. As we cross the fertile valley of Punakha and enter into the valley of Wangdue Phodrang, we take an opportunity to photograph the majestic fortress of Wangdue Dzong.

Climbing steadily we drive through semi-tropical vegetation and over a pass with an alpine environment of rhododendrons and dwarf bamboo, known to be home to Red Pandas and yaks. From the pass we descend to the hidden valley of Phobjikha, a glacial valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains. The valley is a designated conservation area and borders the Black Mountains National Park. Due to the large flock of rare and endangered Black-necked Cranes that winter here, it is one of the most important wildlife preserves in the country. The cranes migrate from Tibet to Bhutan and use the swampy center of the Phobjikha Valley as their winter residence from mid-November to mid-March. If we are lucky, some of the “earlybirds” from Tibet may have already arrived!

From the Phobjikha Pass we hike through the beautiful Wangdi Valley, passing clusters of traditional houses on our way to visit the famous Gantey Gompa (altitude 5,500 feet). The oldest and largest Nyingma Buddhist monastery in Bhutan, Gantey Gompa is perched on a ridge with panoramic views of the landscape below. It is directed by Gantey Tulku, the ninth reincarnation of Pema Lingpa (a “tulku” is a reincarnated person), who is a famous Buddhist saint and teacher. The monastery recently completed its million dollar renovation, and we may have a chance to visit one of its temples.

Tonight we stay in the Hotel Dewachen, located in the hidden valley of Phobjikha – Gantey Gompa. Encircled by pine forests and above the valley of the very rare Black-necked Cranes, the Dewachen Hotel features sixteen double rooms, modern bathrooms, a restaurant with a magnificent view, and cuisine prepared by a professional chef.

Overnight Hotel Dewachen/or a local Guest House
Hotel Dewachen
Phobjika,Wangdue Phodrang,Bhutan
Mobile : +975-17117508 / 17584202
Tel : +975-2-442550
www.hoteldewachen.com OR www.dewachenhotel.com

Thursday, October 30:   Phobjikha to Trongsa
This morning we begin our 3-4 hour journey to Trongsa. After a short drive we cross the Pele la Pass (10,989 ft.), considered the boundary between West and East Bhutan. If the weather is clear we’ll be able to view the high snow-capped peaks of Mount Chomolhari (24,355 ft.). We’ll make a brief stop at Chendebji Chorten, a stupa built in the 18th century by a Lama known as Shida, who nailed into the ground a demon that had been terrorizing the inhabitants of this valley and the nearby Ada valley. We’ll have our packed lunch here.

As we enter the Trongsa valley we see the huge fortress of Trongsa that is built on several levels. The dzong fits narrowly on a spur that juts out into the gorge of the Mangde River and overlooks the routes south and west. The view from the dzong extends for many miles and in former times nothing could escape the vigilance of its watchmen.

Arriving in Trongsa we check into our hotel, the Yangkhil Resort, one of the most elegant establishments in the historic town of Trongsa. Its 21 rooms of modern design combine with traditional Bhutanese architecture. Lush colorful gardens, a fish pond, and views of mountains soaring over 10,000 feet add to the resort’s natural and exotic landscape.

The resort’s indoor dining room offers Bhutanese, Chinese, Continental and Indian cuisine. Outdoor dining space provides a casual open air setting while enjoying breathtaking views of the Trongsa Dzong, Ta Dzong, and surroundings.

Yangkhil Resort
Trongsa, Bhutan
Ph: 975 3 521417/521418
Fax: 975 3 521420
Email: yangkhilresort@druknet.bt
www.yangkhil.bt

Friday, October 31:   Trongsa to Bumthang
After breakfast we’ll visit the majestic Trongsa Dzong. Built in 1647 by Shubdrung Nawang Namgyal, this dzong was the source of many important historical events in the making of modern Bhutan. Our car will drop us at the junction of the road to the Bazaar and the dzong, and we’ll walk from here to the dzong.

Returning to the Bazaar, we are picked up and driven to Taa Dzong, the ancient watchtower. Having served as the watch tower in early times, it has now been turned into a beautiful museum dedicated to the Kings of Bhutan.

After lunch at our hotel, we depart for Bumthang, crossing the Yotongla Pass and into the first of the four valleys of Bumthang, known as Chumey.

Situated in the central north of the country, Bumthang is considered the spiritual heart of Bhutan. It is an area of great historical and cultural importance, for it contains numerous sacred sites. The name “Bumthang” means ‘beautiful field’. There are 4 valleys in the region and they form part of Bhutan’s many protected regions. Not many tours come here, as it is a long distance to travel. But we think it is an important part of any trip to Bhutan. Instead of the long drive back to Paro, we will be flying from Bumthang to Paro.

Entering Bumthang’s first valley, we make a short stop at Tsungney village to observe the weavers who make the famous Bumthang fabric known as Yathra. Continuing to the second valley, Chokhor, (if time permits) we will be dropped off at the Chamkhar Bazaar, where we can walk back to the hotel after sightseeing around the market.

For the next 4 nights in Bumthang, overnight at the Yugharling Resort or Similar

The perfect retreat for mind, body and soul, Yugharling Resort offers the best of all including the ultimate in rejuvenation and relaxation. All rooms offer spectacular views of Chokhor Valley. The resort has with full fledged Spa – Health Club, consisting of sauna, steam, Jacuzzi, traditional stone bath and massage center. The restaurant serves Italian, French, Bhutanese, Chinese & Indian cuisine.

Yugharling Resort
Bumthang Bhutan
+975-3-631948 / 631602
yugarling@druknet.bt
www.yugharling.com

Saturday, November 1:   A Clockwise Exploration of Bumthang
Our sightseeing today will be in the style of Bhutanese tradition, which is clock-wise!

We begin at the Kurjey Lhakhang. This monastery is the final resting place of the first three kings of Bhutan and comprises three temples. One, built in 1652, was built against the rock face where Guru Padmasambhava meditated in the 8th century and subdued the local deity known as Shelging Karpo. The middle temple is built on the site of a cave containing a rock with the imprint of the Guru’s body, and is therefore considered to be the most holy. The temple on the left was built in the 1990s by H.M. Ashi Kesang Wangmo Wangchuck, Grand-Queen Mother. All three temples are surrounded by a 108 chorten wall.

Next we cross the suspension bridge to Tamshing Lhakhang, founded in the beginning of the 16th century. This is a very important temple, remarkable for its direct connection to the Bhutanese saint Pema Lingpa. Nearly 100 monks still live here. It is the seat of Lama Sungtrul Rinpoche.

Lastly, we visit Konchogsum Lhakhang, one of the most ancient temples in Bhutan, built in the 7th century. It is said to be one of the 108 temples built by the Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo, in a single day.

This afternoon we’ll visit Jakar Dzong, where a unique festival is held each year, and we are lucky enough to be here during this time. Festivals in Bhutan are rich and happy expressions of  its ancient Buddhist culture. They are held in all of Bhutan in honor of Guru Rinpoche, who introduced Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century. These festivals, or Tsechus, are held on auspicious days and months in the Bhutanese calendar, lasting up to four days, in which a series of stylized mask dance rituals are performed. At the Dzong we will witness masked dance rituals performed by monks and community dancers. The Bhutanese believe that watching these mystical dances is essential to gain enlightenment.

Overnight Yugharling Resort

Sunday, November 2:   A Drive to Ura Village
Today we’ll drive to Ura, one of the more interesting villages in Bhutan. Crossing Ura-la Pass at 10,000 feet above sea level, the road climbs through amazingly open countryside, only occasionally running into forest. Large sheep pastures line the magnificent view of Mount Gangkhar Puensum, where we stop to get a view of the Ura Valley below. From the pass we begin our hike downhill to reach the Ura Temple, a newer temple dedicated to Guru Rinpoche. Inaugurated in 1986, it contains a huge statue of the master and remarkable paintings of the cycle of his teachings.

We continue our walk through the village of Ura, remarkable for its clusters of houses alongside cobblestone streets that give the town a medieval look. We make frequent stops to converse with the villagers, children and womenfolk, who wear a sheep skin on their backs to protect from the heavy loads they carry. Within the last 25 years Ura has been transformed from a marginal community to a prosperous valley.

Saying goodbye to this beautiful village, we drive back to Chamkhar for dinner and overnight.

Overnight Yugharling Resort

Sunday, November 2:   Jakar Festival and a Special Prayer Ceremony
This morning we will again visit the Jakar Dzong and the festival, for a special unfurling of a giant Thangkha (religious scroll), and to witness more dances These festivals (tsechus) are a rich form of oral history tradition, where the Bhutanese pass on values, mythology, and spiritual beliefs through the dance dramas. The unfurling of the Thangkha depicts Guru Padmasambava or some other important Buddhist deity.

In the afternoon we’ll visit a village farm and family to see how they live their everyday lives on their farms. You can donate some vegetable seeds to the family (bring them from home)- seeds not found in Bhutan like celery, beet root, Chinese bok choy, and others.

From the farm, we will drive to Kharchu Dratshang, to participate in a special prayer ceremony, just for our group, performed by monks at the temple. This will be a very special highlight of our time spent here.

Overnight Yugharling Resort

Tuesday, November 4:   Bumthang to Paro
Early this morning we fly from Bumthang back to Paro, so we don’t have to repeat our very long overland drive by vehicle, and can spend more time in Paro and our last two nights in the Dragon Kingdom.

After our arrival in Paro we’ll visit the Drukgyal Dzong, built in 1647 by Shubdrung Nawang Namgyal. The dzong was destroyed by fire and left in ruins as an evocative reminder of the victory of the Bhutanese over the Tibet-Mongol forces. Hence the name Druk Gyal, “the fortress of victory”. On a clear day there are magnificent views of Mount Chomolhari (23,990 ft.).

Driving south we stop to visit the Satsam Chorten, built in memory of the late Dilgo Khentse Rinpochey, and continue on to Kyichu Lhakhang, built in the 17th century by a Tibetan King, Songtsen Gonpo.

After lunch we visit the National Museum of Bhutan, (Ta Dzong) which contains works of art, handicrafts, costumes, armor and rare stamps from Bhutan. The we take a leisurely hike down to Rimpung Dzong (Paro Dzong) which means “the fortress of the heap of jewels”. This complex houses the administrative and religious headquarters for the Paro district. A part of Bernardo Bertolucci’s movie, “Little Buddha”, was filmed inside this dzong.

Crossing the river through a traditional covered bridge, we walk to our waiting bus at the valley floor and transfer to our 5 star Hotel Zhiwaling, where we stay for the next two nights.

Hotel Zhiwaling
Satsam Chorten, Paro Bhutan
Phone Number : +975-8-271277
Fax Number : +975-8-271456
www.zhiwaling.com

The 45-room Hotel Zhiwaling (“Place of Peace”), combines fine Bhutanese hospitality with the best of 21st-century technology. Envisioned and built by a local Bhutanese company, the hotel’s elaborate hand-carved wooden cornices and masterful stonework co-exist beautifully with technology. The hotel includes everything from radiant floor heat to a cutting-edge telecommunications system.

The hotel’s spa offers all the amenities of a modern fitness center: sauna, steam room, gym, and a traditional Bhutanese stone bath. There is a business center, tea house, conference room, and a meditation house. One of the restaurants offers contemporary international cuisine and the other, classic Bhutanese dishes. For after-hours fun, everyone gathers at the Mad Monk Bar.

The crowning glory of this new, ten-acre cultural landmark in the quiet Paro Valley is the temple built into the second floor of the hotel. Honoring the spiritual heritage of this ancient Buddhist Kingdom, the temple was built with 450-year old timbers from the famous Gangtey Monastery.

Wednesday, November 5:   Paro and the Magical “Tiger’s Nest”
Today is special, as you have the option to hike to the very famous and magical monastery known as Taktsang (the “Tiger’s Nest”), one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites in the Buddhist Himalayan World. The monastery itself is perched high on a granite cliff that drops 2,000 feet to the valley floor. Its name is derived from a legend that tells how Guru Rinpoche flew across the mountains to this spot on the back of a tigress, reaching a cave in which he meditated for three months, converting the people of the Paro Valley to Buddhism during his stay. Viewing the monastery hanging on a cliff, flying tigers don’t seem impossible at all!

The path takes us through a forest of oak, blue pine, and rhododendron to a small chorten surrounded by prayer flags. Walking further we reach a teahouse, our lunch stop, with a spectacular view of the Taktsang temples. Continuing on, you’ll soon see the monastery, clinging to the edge of a sheer rock cliff that plunges into the valley below.

Returning to our luxurious hotel, we celebrate our last night together in the Dragon Kingdom with our Farewell Dinner at the Zhiwaling, a fabulous way to end our time in Bhutan.

Overnight Hotel Zhiwaling

Thursday, November 6:   Depart Paro for Bangkok
Today we transfer to the airport for our departure from the Land of the Thunder Dragon and our return to Bangkok by late afternoon/early evening.

If you have a late evening flight back to the U.S., you will most likely have plenty of time between flights. If you want a more relaxed schedule, you might consider staying overnight at the very comfortable Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport Hotel, a 4 star hotel only a 10 minute walk (or free shuttle) from Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok.

OR, you may choose to stay in Bangkok for more adventures on your own! It’s a very interesting and fun city, and there are some great hotels to choose from. Ciretta at Montana Travel can help you with that.

Tashi delek! (Good Luck/Best Wishes!)

Friday, November 7:   Bangkok to Home
If you took a late evening flight from Bangkok on November 6, you arrive back home on November 7.